The 7300RU (Replacement/Upgrade) Series converter/charger sections provide. FOR SALE Current limiting design automatically shuts down power. RV Electronic Upgrade Converters/Chargers by PARALLAX Power Supply. The trick is to install and then use the voltage adjustment to balance the charging level. Then you're looking at repair or replacement of a component or the entire fridge. 55 AMP POWERMAX MBA RV power converter main board Replacement For WFCO WF8955mba - 162.95. After replacing all of my RV lamps with LED, I downsized to this unit. You may have to go poking around behind the exterior service panel for the fridge to find its DC power supply wires and confirm whether correct voltage is available there.Īfter that's all done, if the controls for the fridge still don't power on, one would suspect the fridge may be damaged. When your RV’s converter is working properly, it should have an AC voltage reading between 110 to 130. It may be powered through a fuse in the main DC panel, but it might instead be powered from elsewhere in the vehicle such as a high-power fuse panel near the house battery. A faulty RV power converter will most often show itself as dimming or flickering lights, or the loss of use of 12 volt powered items such as electrical outlets, lights, refrigerator, or low battery charge. Although replacing a converter can be a bit more pricey depending on the. When the DC system is confirmed to be working normally, turn your attention to DC supply to the fridge. The RV converter takes the 120 volt power from when you are plugged into shore. Are all of those functions working? Check the DC fuse panel, main fuses, and so on. Shipping (no tracking numbers are provided for. The recently-replaced converter should be providing 12 volts DC to run lights, water pump, house battery charging, etc. Arterra WF-8735-PDA WFCO RV Power Converter Door Replacement For WF-8735-P. It sounds like your testing has focused on the mains-voltage supply but overlooked the 12 volt DC side. An RV fridge usually requires 12 volts DC to run its control circuitry, plus propane gas and/or mains electricity to provide the heat energy that actually cools the fridge (ammonia absorption cycle cooling).
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